Overview
Only a two-hour time difference from the west coast of the United States, Tahiti is light-years away. Born of volcanic violence, the islands typify an earthly paradise with unrivaled beaches and lush tropical scenery. Few other places on earth come so close to perfection. Although attempts by overly zealous missionaries in the late-1790's obliterated many sacred maraes (temples) and banned native rituals and customs, their efforts didn't diminish the joyous Tahitian spirit and culture. Traditions live on to the delight of visitors and locals alike.
"Tahiti, where love lives"—Tahiti Tourism promotes that slogan and from the lush green mountains to the crystal clear warm lagoon waters, the islands are truly romantic and appealing. Their rhythmic grace is both joyous and tranquil. A favorite Tahitian expression is Haere Maru—"take it easy." It isn't difficult to set your internal clock to Island Time and adopt the local lifestyle. In no time at all it’s likely that beautiful hand-painted pareos and crowns of flowers will be de rigueur for female passengers on your ship.
Tahiti has a well-deserved reputation for being expensive. Hotels, particularly those featuring over water bungalows, can run eight hundred dollars a night and up without meals. Fortunately, the Tahitian government and the Ministry of Tahiti Tourism have made a concerted effort to change all that. The country's tourism infrastructure is growing and cruise passengers benefit from improved port facilities and expanding tour options.
Io ora na (pronounced yo-rana with hard 'o' and soft 'a') is Tahitian for "hello" and tentative efforts at using it (and Mauruuru roa for "thank you") are rewarded with smiles and nods of approval. French is the official language and Spanish and English are taught in schools. Although not learned in school, Tahitian is widely spoken. Many islanders shyly sharpen their English skills on tourists and helpfully share local terms for flowers, food, and fish.
A few cruise ships now call Tahiti home and many others make intermediary South Pacific itinerary stops in the islands. Exploring a variety of Tahiti's islands is finally affordable. With a few exceptions, Tahitian tour guides speak very good English and go out of their way to answer questions and provide visitors with information about their culture and homeland. Make your objective to see Tahiti on land, in the sea, and from the air. Chose excursions and activities carefully and you will be rewarded with amazing sights and experiences.
Day 1 & 2 Feb 19-20, 2014
Papeete & the Island of Tahiti
By night, Tahiti’s largest city appears charming and exotic. Daytime views reveal a bustling business and commercial center. Leave Papeete behind in a 4X4 to climb a rugged road and explore the mountainous central portion of the island, following a stream through lush valleys punctuated with dozens of waterfalls. The "back side" of the island is a huge contrast to both the city and the island's interior—the less populous coastal areas are prettier and the view across to "little" Tahiti Iti proves its beauty exceeds that of the larger Tahiti Nui.
Cruise ships dock immediately across the street from Boulevard Pomare in the heart of Papeete. Stop at the Tahiti Tourist Board right at the pier for maps and information. Getting around is easy, either by tour, rental car, or Le Truck—the public bus service. The only way to see the island’s interior is by touring in a 4X4—vehicles similar to Range Rovers with two bench seats in the back, each seating six to eight passengers, four to a side facing each other. Leave the driving to locals, as they know the rugged road up the mountainous central portion of the island. Following a stream through lush valleys punctuated with dozens of waterfalls, 4X4s make stops to examine the wide variety of plant species and for a swim in the cool, clear stream.
By car or a comfortable air-conditioned bus, set off for a “circle island” tour of Tahiti—roads generally run along the coast and the sea is almost always within view. Plot your way to historic and scenic sites; Point Venus, the spot where Captain Cook first landed, the impressive Arahoho Blowhole, black sand beaches, across a narrow isthmus to the smaller Tahiti Iti where Fort Taravao stands guard, the lovely gardens of Vaipahi with its cascading waterfall, and Maraa Grotto, caverns overhung with cool ferns.
Don’t overlook museums that highlight the heritage of Polynesia, including the Paul Gauguin Museum, the Museum of Tahiti and Her Islands, and the Marae of Atahurahu. Be aware that the "works" of Gauguin are reproductions. For the adventurous, helicopter tours are also available. Lagoonarium de Tahiti consists of four fish parks, exhibits of tropical fish, and a shark pen. The Grands Ballet de Tahiti is an evening show of authentic dances and songs.
Lafayette Beach, about three miles northeast of Papeete has black sand and limited facilities. Further along the coastal road is Tahara’s Beach, an excellent black sand beach for swimming. Another good beach for swimming is located in Mahina, near Point Venus.
Ambling down Boulevard Pomare visitors are enchanted by French-inspired fashions and exotic merchandise displayed alongside more mundane every-day goods. Side streets leading from the main thoroughfare are crowded with shops and vendors selling everything from black pearls to bright pareus (sarongs). Covering an entire block, Papeete’s colorful two-story Municipal Market is the place to find local products, vanilla, soaps, souvenirs and gifts, flowers and fruit. Upstairs in the crafts section is a huge array of pareus, baskets, shell jewelry, and the inevitable tee-shirts.
The center of pier side action isn’t merchandise but food. Les roulouttes are mobile restaurants set up in the waterfront parking lot after dark. It's the least expensive place to eat in Papeete and the smells are inviting to say the least.
Day 3 Feb 21, 2014
Huahine
Agricultural and primitive, Huahine is home to the most extensive collection of ancient religious maraes (temples) in Tahiti. The ways of Polynesian ancestors dominate here—ancient fish catching practices and methods of cultivation are still in use. As a testament to changing times, the Hotel Bali Hai is a long time Huahine landmark and the island is becoming known as a back-packers haven.
There is an extreme shortage of public transportation on Huahine. A limited number of taxis are available in the main town of Fare and while Le Truck also operates from there, its schedule is erratic. Automobile rentals should be arranged in advance. Adventurous cruisers can rent a small number of bicycles or scooters. Passengers tendering to the island will find themselves on a small, dusty pier—shuttles into Fare are usually offered.
Huahine’s rugged landscape and clear blue waters offer views of the perfect South Seas escape. Trace her history by visiting some of the sacred sites under restoration—Matairea-Rahi, Marae Manunu, and Marae Anini are the major ones. Tours of the island wind through the town of Fare and can include stops at sites such as a vanilla plantation (with a demonstration of the labor intensity of growing this crop), the breathtaking view from the belvedere over the bay, a clear cool stream to feed blue-eyed freshwater eels, and Maeva Lake where fisherman still tend 400-year old stone fish traps.
Ships’ excursions can range from a guided car ride, glass bottom boat tours, lagoon snorkeling, a private catamaran sail and 4X4 adventure, to an all-day beach feast, waverunner exploration, or simply a shuttle into Fare.
Some of Huahine’s best beaches are found along the southern peninsula in the area of Auea Bay. For good snorkeling, though, just walk down to the water from Chez Guynette in the center of Fare. Take a short walk to the Hotel Bali Hai for another good snorkeling area. Not all resorts allow day visitors on their properties; however, you can usually find nice beaches close by. Limited to a few small shops in Fare and road side merchants selling pareus and other local crafts.
Day 5 Feb 23, 2014
Rangiroa Atoll Diving
Rangiroa is 200 miles NE of Papeete – consists of a series of islands around a lagoon- largest atoll in Polynesia and second largest in world – most lagoons in the Society Islands are often murky due to volcanic runoff – water here clean & fresh – Tuamotu Archipelago consists of 78 islands roughly half the size of Western Europe and largest chain of atolls in the world
The Rangiroa port of call also serves as a fishing port for local anglers who sell their goods to other nearby islands. Rangiroa with numerous vineyards considered unique all over the world, exports its produce globally. The vineyards grow on the edge of lagoons alongside coconut trees and tropical plants; they produce two harvests every year. The coast is a breeding ground for unique marine cultured black pearls sold which are sold internationally.
Proud of producing the best black pearl found in the world, locals create hand crafted jewelries and souvenir items from it. These items are sold on the streets and within the shops throughout the island. Visitors typically by pearl jewelries for gifts. The Boutique Ikimasho is located in the center of Avatoru and sells necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings all adorned with a black pearl or two. Another boutique that sells crafted jewelry items is the Gauguin’s Pearl Boutique located in the main road near the Airport. Shops that sell not only pearl items and accessories but also food products include the Magasin Henriette and the Magasin Sarl.
The second biggest atoll in the world, Rangiroa, offers attractions and sights that are boundless and beautiful. From the pristine clear waters of the beaches to the mountain ranges and inland lagoons, it is the perfect setting for a great vacation. Rangiroa is not the only sight to see, the surrounding islands of the archipelago offers endless attractions. The Avatoru village presents the old culture and traditions of the island. Other small settlement areas that are noteworthy include Otepipi and the Tiputa. You will find access to the Blue Lagoon and to several diving sites near the Avatoru village. The Blue Lagoon is also a popular excursion area for cruise passengers site seeing on the island. Clear blue waters are perfect for some boating and swimming. Romantic settings and cool ambiance creates a mood perfect for lovers on a date.
Pacific basin communities have a mixture of local and European cultures; these cuisines are found on Rangiroa. The island offers variety of dishes that speak of the influence of Europe and distinctly separates itself from other local dishes. The Le Vaimario in Avatoru offers a French menu with a touch of local flavor and taste. It is suggested that visitors start with the homemade foie gras and the shrimp sautéed with orange and ginger. La Vaimario operates from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 6:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. from Tuesdays to Saturdays. Other restaurants that offer great local cuisines are the Te RaiRoa Restaurant and the Restaurant le Kai Kai.
Day 7 Feb 25, 2014
Raiatea
According to historians, Raiatea was the royal, political, religious, and cultural heart of Polynesia. Legend claims it was the birthplace of the gods and it was from here that the great Polynesian voyages were launched to New Zealand and Hawaii.
Ships dock in Uturoa where new facilities and a market are nearby. Immediately off the pier, through a covered market where local crafters sell their wares, vehicles gather to whisk passengers off to explore. Automobile rentals are available but only about half the island’s roads are sealed—the rest don’t require four-wheel drive but are rutted and bumpy. There aren’t very many “sights” to see on Raiatea; rather, the beauty of the scenery and the relaxed atmosphere are her greatest appeals. Raiatea's massive volcanic craters are best seen by 4X4 tour. The drive through dense foliage inside the craters crosses several streams and a wide variety of plant life cultivated in the experimental agricultural station and plantations dots the landscape.
Taputapuatea Marae is one of French Polynesia's most sacred sites. This sanctuary with its volcanic stone base was a center for religious expression. Located alongside the water, ceremonies were performed there for significant events in life including spells to guard fishermen taking to sea.
Covered canoe tours transport visitors up the Faaroa River, Tahiti’s only navigable river, and then along Raiatea's beautiful coastline to the dock in Uturoa. Romantic and exotic, a sunset cruise aboard "Va'a Rahi" (meaning literally "canoe big") is a special event if your ship is in port until nightfall. The spell of a perfect south sea sunset is best captured at sea.
A performance of local tamure by the Raiatea Nui Dancers captivates their audiences with a combination of joyous innocence and sexuality—a not to be missed performance! For ships overnighting in Raiatea, Uturoa offers nightlife in the form of a disco, Le Zenith.
Raiatea has no beaches but there are beautiful beaches for swimming and snorkeling on the numerous motus. Either a ships’ excursion or a private boat tour arranged dockside would be a pleasant diversion.
Immediately in front of the pier there is a covered market where local crafters sell their wares when ships are in port. A couple blocks from the waterfront is a colorful market selling crafts as well as fruits, vegetables, and flowers.
Day 8-9 Feb 26, 2014
Bora Bora
James Michener described Bora Bora as “The most beautiful island in the world.” Few residents or visitors would disagree. It remains picture postcard perfect and the ideal of a South Pacific paradise. Dominated by Mount Otemanu, it is surrounded by one of the world’s most spectacular lagoons and a series of motus, each one more captivating than the last.
Ships anchor in the harbor and tender ashore to the jetty at Vaitape, the main town on the island. The Bora Bora Visitor’s Bureau has an office on the wharf and scooters and automobile rental agencies are located across the street. After the attack on Pearl Harbor, over 5,000 soldiers were brought to Bora Bora to establish an air base and coastal defense guns remain in place. Film crews have descended on the island over the years to capture the alluring scenery as a backdrop for motion pictures. The rich and famous find Bora Bora a peaceful retreat and since 1979 the island’s most famous restaurant, Bloody Mary's has been the place to spot vacationing celebrities.
For tours around the island, Le Truck circles Bora Bora on the 19.2-mile road built in 1943 by the United States Seabees. Guides share island history, lore, and explanations about culture and daily life. Varied stops included beaches, churches, temple sites, and a refreshment break at Bloody Mary's.
With guidebook in hand, visitors should have no trouble navigating the island and finding the sights along the way as well as a scenic watering-hole at the Hotel Bora Bora or one of the other plush resorts. Swimming with stingrays and shark feeding excursions in the lagoon can be arranged either through ships’ excursions or ashore. For the more timid, the Lagoonarium offers a similar experience. For the adventurous, circle the island on a jet ski with stops on motus for swimming and to sample fresh coconut.
Matira Beach, Bora Bora’s most popular, sweeps around from Raititi Point to Matira Point west of the Hotel Bora Bora. Trips around the lagoon are popular and usually include a motu picnic and swimming and snorkeling in the pristine waters.
At the wharf in Vaitape several merchants offer tee-shirts, pareus, and other souvenirs. Other shops and jewelry stores dot the street to the right of the pier. Crafts and gifts can be found at small shops all over the island. Resort shops can be counted on for upscale items.
Day 10 Feb 28, 2014
Moorea
Moorea's mountains served as the backdrop for the movie "South Pacific" and are far more dramatic up close and personal than they could ever appear on the silver screen. Moorea ranks high among cruisers' choice of "favorite island" and with good cause—it's absolutely stunning and the residents add to the ambiance. Locals are pleased with the upswing in tourism and also their government's responsible position on resort expansion. Only church towers can be taller than coconut trees.
Tendering ashore in Moorea is magical. Native musicians serenade arriving passengers and artisans display their wares along the jetty. Scooter and bicycle rentals are available and you can arrange an automobile rental in advance. Probably the best way to traverse the Opunohu Valley is by 4X4 tour. Stops along the way to Le Belvedere, an awe-inspiring vantage point with some of Tahiti’s most scenic views, usually include the pineapple processing factory and the painstakingly restored Titiroa Marae.
Now an agricultural research center, Kellum Place was once a private plantation. You can tour the house and lush grounds filled with flowers and herbs. In Papetoai you’ll find the oldest church in Polynesia. The octagonal church was built in 1822 atop a marae.
Moorea’s Tiki Village may (or may not) be a "slice of island life" but it certainly is fun in a camp sort of way. Visitors are shown a miniature pearl farm (reached by canoe) and given the opportunity to purchase black pearl jewelry on the spot. Resident artisans create crafts that are also available to purchase. But the real highlight of the Tiki Village is the show—a pareus demonstration, high-energy dancing, singing, and finally audience participation.
Don’t overlook explorations into the lagoon. Moorea is one of few places in the world where snorkelers can swim with stingrays. This is also a scuba divers heaven and dives can be arranged with local operators. Shore excursions can include fully narrated bus tours, a dolphin watching expedition, motu beach picnics, a catamaran sail, waverunner rides across the lagoon, and parasailing. A helicopter ride is an exhilarating experience and source of wondrous views of the complete island and lagoon.
Hauru Point has one of the best beaches on the island. All beaches are public and the resorts along this strip don’t seem to mind if you cut through their property. Motu Tiahura and Motu Faretone islets are so close to shore that you can snorkel out to them. Take some time to poke around through the dockside stalls. Without exception, the crafters and artisans in Moorea are friendly as well as extremely talented—this is the island with the nicest pareus, mother of pearl jewelry, and watercolors in Tahiti. There are several fine art galleries in Cook’s Bay. The Moorea Pearls Centre features an experimental pearl farm at the aquarium by Cook’s Bay.
